Month: January 2008

So again, MSG is in everything here. You’ve been warned.

That said, the food in Shanghai is distinctive, flavorful, and very rich.

Because China is so big, different regions have very distinctive food styles. In the south (Canton, Hong Kong, Guangzhao, Shenzhen, etc.) rice is served all the time and dishes are stirfried. In the north (Shanghai, Ningbao, and the like), meats are commonly braised in rich sauces and their main staples are noodles and dumplings; foods that are heavier, heartier, and made with flour because of the colder climate. In Beijing, there’s lots of hotpot, goat, and lamb. Hunan food is infamously spicy.

So here are three highlights from our trip to Shanghai:

JADE GARDEN – Classic Shanghainese food in a colonial French setting. The place is eternally packed, so make sure you call for reservations no less than a week in advance. We enjoyed the Braised Pork (pictured below) and the Crystal Shrimp served with dark vinegar.

XIAO LONG BAO – This isn’t a restaurant but arguably the signature dish of Shanghai (pictured below). It is steamed dumplings filled with pork and sometime some seafood like shrimp or crab. It is so damn flavorful and there’s a special way to eat them so you don’t waste the “tong” or soupy oil that’s sitting inside the dumpling. You can get them at any Shanghainese restaurant but the best have both a flavorful tong/soup and meat filling inside AND a super thin delicate dough. If there’s one thing you HAVE to order while in Shanghai, it’s a steamer full of these puppies.

YU YUAN GARDENS VARIOUS FOODSTANDS – This is a good place to experience “street food” without questioning how unsafe they are. Because these foodstands are within the Yu Yuan Gardens Bazaar, they’re cleaner and a bit safer. And the food is very tasty. You can try classics like soy sauce tea eggs, fishballs, tripe, egg rolls, and my favorite, fried stinky tofu with chili sauce. It’s like cheese for the Chinese because they ferment the tofu much like cheese. Hence the stinkiness. If you are an adventurous eater, it’s not to be missed.

Much of the food we had during our trip was sublime. But I have to admit, my husband and I are COMPLETELY burnt out on Chinese food for quite a while!

So let me preface my description of Shanghai with this… Everything you eat will have MSG in it. They don’t use it in “pinches,” they use it by the teaspoon and tablespoon in each and every dish. It’s as normal to them as soy sauce, or salt to us. It’s just the way they live. So eat with caution and drink a lot of water if you travel there.

Now, with that said, my husband and I had a dandy old time in Shanghai. The area is so developed, so metropolitan, it’s scary. I was there just 12 years ago, and its now infamous skyline didn’t exist back then. Yes, that famous skyline has come to fruition in the span of only 10+ years. Amazing and frightening at the same time.

There is a lot of rich cultural history in Shanghai. Hong Kong is much like New York in that it’s so bustling, crowded, and metropolitan. But Shanghai at times can be like New York on steroids. You can’t get into the hottest (and truly tasty) restaurants without a reservation at least two weeks in advance. And unlike Hong Kong, this town has an artistic side. Hong Kong can be a bit too trendy and vapid.

There was a lot of French colonial influence in Shanghai during the 1920’s and 30’s. The classic dresses that women wore called qipao or cheongsam were standard fare during this time. And that French influence was the reason for the riverside area called “The Bund.” All it’s buildings are very European and old (and now houses a bunch of high end bars, clubs, hotels and restaurants).

And because of the French influence during that time, Shanghai has a strong sense of European art and culture. It’s the reason why I love the city. A combination of dirty old China (still very rough around the edges) and European sophistication.

Besides The Bund, here are some districts to visit:

TAI KANG LU –

If I didn’t know any better, I’d think I was in a little neighborhood somewhere in Paris. It’s a maze of narrow alleyways and a bit hard to get to. But it’s totally worth it. Great spot to enjoy yourself at a cafe and shop for art, teas, jewelry, housewares, and magnificent photography. We loved this area immensely. It’s so charming.

XING TI DI –

This is the hot spot for the young and trendy. If Paris Hilton were to visit Shanghai, she’d come here. There are some cute little boutiques, but it’s the place to be for coffee, a drink at the hottest bar or club, or dinner at some of the trendiest restaurants in town. It’s worth a visit, but if you enjoy going to bed before midnight, no need to spend too much time here.

YU YUAN GARDENS –

This place is a dizzying maze of little Chinese shops and food galore. It’s a little like an organized flea market, but more like a crowded bazaar. There’s also some classic Chinese buildings (with their distinctive curved and pointed roofs), gardens and ponds. If you want gifts for the folks back home (pearls, other jewelry, accessories, and knick knacks), this is the place to get them. And stop by the many food stands that serve stinky fried tofu, xiao long bao, and other classic food-stand delicacies. Yum!

Nice segway into the food discussion… But that’ll have to wait until next week. 🙂